Thermal baths, thalasso and spa resorts in the Basque Country: the complete guide

Between the ocean and the Pyrenees, the Basque Country — on both sides of the Franco-Spanish border — has been cultivating the art of looking after yourself through water for more than two centuries: thermal water inland, seawater on the coast and, on the Spanish side, grand spa resorts steeped in history. Here is the full tour.

Cambo-les-Bains, the French Basque Country’s spa town

Cambo-les-Bains (Kanbo) is the only spa town (station thermale) in the French Basque Country (Iparralde). Its Art Deco thermal baths stand in a 12-hectare park on the banks of the Nive.

• The water rises at 22 °C. It is sulphurous and contains sulphates, calcium and magnesium, as well as trace elements such as copper and zinc.
• Conditions treated: rheumatology, respiratory conditions, breast cancer aftercare and tinnitus.
• The standard course of treatment (cure) lasts 18 days. When prescribed by a doctor, it is covered by the French national health insurance, the Assurance maladie (at 70% of the reference rates for spa doctors’ fees).
• On site, there is a team of around sixty spa staff, plus nurses, physiotherapists, dietitians, fitness coaches and psychological support.

While you are there, visit Edmond Rostand’s Villa Arnaga.

Biarritz, from sea bathing to thalasso

The story begins at the end of the 18th century, when the little fishing port of Biarritz started to attract devotees of sea bathing. Under the Second Empire, Empress Eugénie made it her favourite holiday resort, and Napoleon III had a palace built there: Biarritz became ‘the queen of beaches and the beach of kings’.

Modern thalassotherapy in Biarritz is linked to the name of Louison Bobet, three-time winner of the Tour de France (1953, 1954, 1955), who became convinced of the benefits of the sea air and seawater after being treated with thalasso following a serious car accident. His centre is still in operation, according to the Biarritz tourist office.

Thalasso on the Basque coast

The Basque coast bills itself as France’s leading thalassotherapy region. The very word ‘thalassotherapy’ was coined in 1865 by Dr Joseph de la Bonnardière, and the biologist René Quinton demonstrated in the 19th century the similarity between seawater and human blood plasma. Biarritz was home to two pioneering centres: the Institut Louison Bobet and the Thermes Marins.

How it works: seawater is pumped from a depth of about ten metres offshore, with no chemical treatment, then heated to 35–38 °C, close to body temperature.

The centres on the coast (according to Tourisme 64):

Town	Centre
Biarritz	Thalmar; Sofitel
Anglet	Atlanthal
Saint-Jean-de-Luz	Thalazur; Grand Hôtel Thalasso & Spa
Hendaye	Relais Thalasso

Treatments on offer in Biarritz: seaweed wraps, massages, beauty treatments, getting back in shape after surgery, anti-stress programmes. The town’s spas also offer Thai massage, Ayurvedic treatments, acupuncture or yoga overlooking the ocean.

The Biarritz spas listed by the tourist office: Sofitel Miramar Thalassa, Thalmar, the Spa Impérial at the Hôtel du Palais, the Spa Nuxe and Le Hammam.

La Perla, in San Sebastián

On La Concha beach, La Perla keeps alive the Belle Époque spirit of San Sebastián (Donostia). A wooden bathing establishment already stood here; the new building of 1912 was hailed by the press of the day as one of the most beautiful in the world.

Today it is a thalassotherapy centre: a seawater circuit with pools and showers, a panoramic jacuzzi overlooking the bay, a sensory trail and an ice fountain. Open every day 8:00–22:00; allow about 2 hours for the circuit.

Historic spa resorts on the Spanish side

Zestoa (Gipuzkoa)

According to tradition, around 1760, the Marquis of San Millán’s mangy dogs were cured after bathing in pools of warm water: so the springs of Zestoa (Cestona) were discovered. The spa resort (balneario) opened in 1804 and launched tourism in the area; the Grand Hotel was built in 1893. After the great floods of 1983, the establishment was completely modernised: today it has 130 rooms, a theatre, gardens and hydrotherapy facilities.

Elgorriaga (Navarre)

In Navarre, legend has it that landowners noticed their cattle always drank from the same spring: analysis revealed exceptionally mineral-rich water. Declared of public benefit in 1919, the waters of Elgorriaga were visited by the children of King Alfonso XIII. The establishment describes them as the saltiest in Europe (336 g/l): their high salinity makes it very easy to float.

Fitero (Navarre)

In southern Navarre, the thermal waters of Fitero have been used since antiquity: remains from the time of Augustus have been found there. In 1157, King Sancho III of Castile gave them to the monastery of Fitero. There are two establishments: the old baths, where Juan de Palafox, future viceroy and archbishop of Mexico, was born in 1600 (today the Virrey Palafox spa), and the new baths, built after a new spring was discovered in 1846, which bear the name of the poet Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer, who used to stay there. They have been united since 1909 under the Baños de Fitero company.

Our tips

• For a course of spa treatment, talk to your doctor first: they are the one who prescribes it.
• For thalasso, book ahead, especially during the holidays.
• Combine it with a walk: along the Nive at Cambo, or the coastal path on the coast (see restorative nature).

Sources

• Chaîne thermale du Soleil — Cambo-les-Bains thermal baths (in French)
• Tourisme 64 — Thalassotherapy in the Basque Country
• Biarritz tourist office — Thalasso and wellbeing (in French); English Wikipedia — Louison Bobet
• Turismo Euskadi — Zestoa spa (in Spanish)
• Hotel Balneario Elgorriaga — History (in Spanish)
• Balneario de Fitero — History
• Basque Government (Euskadi.eus) — La Perla, thalassotherapy centre (in Spanish)

Ongi etorri — and enjoy the pampering!