Ustaritz in 30 seconds
Nearly 7,900 inhabitants (7,897 in 2023, according to Insee, France’s national statistics institute), covering 32.75 km² on both sides of the Nive. On the D932, between Bayonne (Baiona) and Cambo-les-Bains. The historic capital of the province of Labourd (Lapurdi) until 1790: in the 1170s (in 1174 according to Wikipedia, ‘around 1170’ according to the municipality), the Viscount of Labourd, Arnaud-Bertrand, driven out of Bayonne by Richard the Lionheart, moved into the castle of Ustaritz. The town then became the seat of the Biltzar and of the bailiwick court.
Its Basque name, Uztaritze, is said to combine urt- (plain, plateau) and haritz (pedunculate oak).
A little history — the Biltzar
The Biltzar was the assembly of Labourd. It brought together the mayor-abbots (maires-abbés) of each parish, chosen from among the masters of the houses (etxekojaun); the nobility and the clergy were excluded.
24 January 1567: the date of the oldest known minutes of the Biltzar; 29 delegates represented 31 communities.
The Biltzar met at the Château de la Motte, on the site of the present-day town hall. It had wide-ranging powers: raising taxes, the militia, running the province.
1789: the night of 4 August abolishes the privileges of the provinces; the Biltzar holds its last session on 18 November 1789 and calls for its constitution to be maintained or for a department to be created uniting the three Basque provinces of France.
Ustaritz through the centuries
1523: the town is destroyed on the orders of Emperor Charles V.
17th–18th centuries: the cultivation of maize, which came from Mexico, revives the economy; merchants and local worthies build fine residences, including that of the Garat brothers, future deputies to the Estates General. At the time the Nive has three river ports — Portua (Arrauntz), Barraka (Hérauritz) and Gaztelua (centre) — through which goods brought by mule from Navarre pass on their way to Bayonne.
Late 19th century: after the decline that followed the Revolution, Basques who had returned from America build baroque ‘châteaux’ with exotic names, known as the ‘American houses’ (maisons américaines).
What to see
The town hall (former Château de la Motte)
It stands on the site of the castle where the Biltzar sat. A site of major symbolic importance.
The Church of Saint-Vincent
A neo-Gothic parish church, featuring one of the very first uses of cast iron in architecture.
The chapels
The chapel of Sainte-Catherine, of medieval origin, in the Hérauritz district, and the chapel of Sainte-Madeleine d’Oxantz.
The Labourdin houses
Several Labourdin houses (maisons labourdines) from the 17th and 18th centuries, and the Château Lota (19th century).
The banks of the Nive
The municipality stretches along both banks of the river, which make for a pleasant stroll.
Market
Farmers’ market every Saturday morning on Place Lota.
Specialities of Labourd
- Piperade with Espelette pepper
- Veal axoa
- Ossau-Iraty sheep’s cheese
- Irouléguy wine
Getting there
- Car: the D932 from Bayonne or Cambo-les-Bains
- Train: TER regional trains on the Bayonne–Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port line, Ustaritz station
Ideal itinerary (half a day)
- Morning: the town hall (site of the Biltzar), the Church of Saint-Vincent and the Labourdin houses
- Afternoon: a walk along the Nive, then on to Cambo-les-Bains or Espelette
Frequently asked questions
Is Ustaritz worth a detour from Biarritz?
Yes, if you want to understand the institutional history of Labourd. Combine it with Cambo-les-Bains and Espelette.
Does Ustaritz offer Basque-medium schooling?
Yes, notably at the Louis-Dassance ikastola (Basque-medium school).
Is it a good place for families?
Yes: the river, easy walks, a calm atmosphere. No ‘spectacular’ attractions, but a peaceful stay.
My favourite photo
The Nive valley at sunset, when the light turns orange. Or the Labourdin houses with their colourful half-timbering.
Sources
- Insee — territorial comparison tool, Ustaritz (2023 population, in French)
- Town of Ustaritz — History, Farmers’ market (in French)
- Wikipedia (in French): Ustaritz, Biltzar
Ongi jin Uztaritzera — Welcome to Ustaritz.