Tolosa in 30 seconds
About 20,000 inhabitants (20,109 in 2024, INE), 27 km from San Sebastián, in the Oria valley. Capital of Gipuzkoa from 1844 to 1854, before the capital moved permanently to San Sebastián. An industrial town, historically focused on papermaking.
A little history
1256: King Alfonso X of Castile grants Tolosa the status of villa (chartered town). The name is said to refer to Toulouse.
1282, 1469, 1503: the town is ravaged by fire several times.
1844–1854: capital of Gipuzkoa, under the progressive governments.
1872–1876: during the last Carlist War, Tolosa is one of the most important towns in the territory controlled by the Carlists; the newspaper El Cuartel Real is published here.
19th–20th centuries: paper, textile and metalworking industries.
What to see
Tolosa Carnival
The most iconic carnival in Gipuzkoa. In its present form it has been documented since the mid-19th century; under Franco, the people of Tolosa kept it alive by renaming it the ‘spring fiestas’. A whole week of parades, comparsas (costumed troupes), brass bands and floats.
Dates: they vary, falling between February and March, just before Lent. Programme: Fat Thursday, the most important day, when the festivities kick off; from Friday to Monday, parades, tamborradas and street events; Shrove Tuesday, the grand finale, with the burial of the sardine at midnight.
The town hall and the old quarter
The town hall was built between 1657 and 1672. Around it lie the old quarter and the Tinglado market. Also worth seeing: the Aranburu Palace (17th century, a prototype of Basque Baroque), the Idiakez and Atodo palaces, convents, and contemporary sculptures in the streets and squares.
The Saturday market
Every Saturday, in the Tinglado, farmers from the surrounding area sell their produce.
Iglesia de Santa María
Rebuilt after the fire of 1503 in the Basque Gothic style, with three tall vaulted naves.
TOPIC — International Puppet Centre
Opened in 2009 in the former courthouse (1853): a theatre, permanent and temporary exhibitions and a documentation centre.
Other fiestas
San Juan (St John’s Day), with the Bordon Dantza and the bonfire, and the Zumardi days (choir and puppet competitions).
Where to eat — alubias, the local speciality
Alubias de Tolosa — dark-coloured beans, prized for their flavour and traditionally served with Ibarra peppers (guindillas).
A Michelin-starred table
Ama — one Michelin star and a green star (sustainable gastronomy).
Other specialities
- Tejas and cigarrillos de Tolosa — thin traditional biscuits
- Xaxus — a local sweet
- The town has a confectionery museum
Getting there
- By car: from San Sebastián (27 km)
- By train: Renfe Cercanías (local trains) from San Sebastián
1-day itinerary
- Morning: old quarter, town hall, Tinglado market
- Late morning: TOPIC (puppet museum)
- Lunchtime: alubias for lunch
- Afternoon: Iglesia de Santa María, Aranburu Palace, a stroll through the pedestrianised streets
- Evening: pintxos
My favourite photo
The carnival — costumed comparsas parading with brass bands through the streets of the old town. Or a steaming bowl of black alubias.
Sources
- San Sebastián Turismo — Michelin-starred restaurants (Ama)
- Turismo Euskadi (Basque Government) — Tolosa (in Spanish)
- Wikipedia (es): Tolosa (Guipúzcoa) (INE 2024 population), Carnaval de Tolosa
Ongi etorri Tolosara — Welcome to Tolosa.