Soule · Iparralde

Larrau

Larraine

185 inhabitants in a vast mountain municipality in Soule that rises to 2,022 m. Larrau is a gateway to the Irati forest and the Pic d’Orhy. Pastoral life, bilingual French-Basque schooling and a remoteness that has been preserved.

Larrau in 30 seconds

185 inhabitants (2022) spread over 126.8 km², 37 km from Mauléon-Licharre. Altitudes from 319 to 2,022 m. The municipality borders Navarre (Ochagavía, Uztárroz, Isaba) and lies in the upper Saison valley (Uhaitz Handia, ‘the great mountain torrent’). Basque name: Larraine.

What to see

Larrau village

A fronton and a trinquet (indoor pelota court). The Saint-Jean-Baptiste church, whose oldest parts date back to the 12th century, classified as a historic monument in 2003. An end-of-the-world feel.

The Irati forest

About 17,200 hectares straddling the border (2,310 on the French side, shared between Larrau, Mendive and Lecumberry; the rest in Navarre), billed as the largest beech forest in Western Europe. It is a Natura 2000 site; the access road was only completed in 1964. The Chalets d’Iraty holiday resort lies within the municipality, in the Bagargi district. Hikes for all levels.

Pic d’Orhy

Soule’s emblematic peak (2,017 m), with Larrau at its foot. From the Port de Larrau, allow about 3 hours there and back; from the top, there are views over the Bay of Biscay, the Pic d’Anie and Béarn. This is a mountain climb: find out about conditions beforehand and be properly equipped.

The Holzarté gorges

Spectacular gorges, with the Holzarté footbridge, suspended more than 150 metres above the Olhadubi canyon, on the route of the GR10. Built in 1920 by Italian workers so that woodcutters could reach the logging areas on the far side, it was replaced by a new structure during works in 2021; it is nearly 70 metres long. Its name is said to mean ‘between the walls’. From the Logibar inn, allow about 1 hour’s climb (2 hours there and back), and about 4 hours for the Olhadubi loop, which is for experienced walkers only. As the car park is small, the shuttle bus (line 66) is recommended. The Pista waterfall can also be reached.

The Organbidexka pass

A bird-migration monitoring site since 1979.

Pastoral farming

In May–June, the shepherds go up to the cayolars (olha in Souletin), the summer mountain huts where the cheese is made, and come back down in September.

Cultural heritage

The municipality keeps the tradition of pastorales alive. The Song of Bereterretche, a 15th-century lament in the Souletin dialect, is part of the local heritage.

Local specialities

  • Ossau-Iraty PDO (AOP) — the municipality is within the designation area
  • Shepherds’ cooking — simple, generous slow-cooked dishes

Getting there

  • By car — from Mauléon (37 km)

The perfect weekend itinerary

Saturday

  • Morning: climb the Pic d’Orhy
  • Afternoon: the Irati forest

Sunday

  • Morning: the Holzarté gorges and footbridge
  • Afternoon: the church and the trails around the village

My favourite photo

The summit of the Pic d’Orhy at dawn, with Irati below. Or the Irati forest in October, with copper-coloured beeches and a mossy path.

Sources

Ongi jin — Welcome to Larrau.