Itxassou in 30 seconds
2,200 inhabitants (2,204 in 2022), 23 km from Bayonne (Baiona) and less than 4 km from Cambo-les-Bains. A village in inland Labourd (Lapurdi), in the Nive valley, at the foot of Artzamendi (924 m). The municipality lies within the Espelette pepper PDO (AOP) area.
The historic heartland of the Basque Country’s black cherry, with an annual festival in early June.
A little history
Prehistory: stone circles, or cromlechs (Arluxata, Mehatze pass), survive on the heights of Artzamendi.
Middle Ages: medieval texts mention a castle or a watchtower on the summit of Mondarrain. The legend of Roland — Charlemagne’s nephew — is rooted at the Pas de Roland. Roland did not die here: he fell at Roncesvalles (Orreaga), in Navarre, in 778.
17th century: the Church of Saint-Fructueux is built.
Before the Second World War, the village produced between 160 and 300 tonnes of cherries a year.
1994: the Itxassou/Itsasu Cherry producers’ group (GIE Cerise d’Itxassou/Itsasu) and the Xapata association are set up to revive production and preserve the local varieties.
2007: the Cherry Brotherhood (Confrérie de la cerise) is founded.
1949: a parish fête, created to pay for musical instruments, becomes the ‘Earth Festival’ (fête de la Terre) and then, in 1952, the Cherry Festival (Fête de la Cerise).
2013: the Cherry Festival is added to France’s Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage (Inventaire du patrimoine culturel immatériel) on 9 November.
Unmissable sights
The Church of Saint-Fructueux
A 17th-century church, with a bell-tower porch and tiered galleries on three sides.
The Pas de Roland
A pierced rock below the D349 road, on the banks of the Nive, in the gorges. According to legend, Roland opened up this passage.
Artzamendi (924 m)
The highest point in Labourd, near the Spanish border. There are radio transmitters at the summit, which is reached by a narrow road (gradients of up to 20%) from the hamlet of Laxia via the Mehatze pass.
Outdoor activities
- Hiking: the Atharri circuit (9.2 km, 3 hrs, easy) via the Laxia district; the Mondarrain–Artzamendi circuit (22 km, 8 hrs 15 mins, difficult) over the summits and past the cromlechs; other routes, including the GR 8, round off the options.
- Mountain biking: the Basseboure–Atharri loop (10.5 km, easy).
- White water: canoeing and kayaking, rafting and canyoning on the Nive with several operators.
- Gliding: a centre founded in 1971.
- Climbing on Mondarrain and fishing on the Nive.
Famous people linked to Itxassou
- Pierre Dospital (born in 1950 in Itxassou) — rugby player.
- Roland — Charlemagne’s nephew, who died at Roncesvalles (Navarre) in 778; legend links him to the Pas de Roland.
Itxassou black cherries
Three main local varieties: peloa (picked in mid-May), xapata (late May–early June) and beltxa (first half of June). Other, rarer ones survive: bilarroa, garroa, goixtiarra, markitxa, xuria. Itxassou cherries do not yet have a protected designation: an application for PDO status was filed at the end of 2023.
The Cherry Festival
Every year, on the first Sunday in June: a bilingual mass at the Church of Saint-Fructueux, a game of pelota, a meal with Basque musicians, dancing, Basque strength contests and activities for children. Organised by the Itsasuarrak association with some 150 volunteers. Added to France’s Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013.
Getting there
- Car: from Bayonne, up the Nive valley via Cambo-les-Bains
- Train: Itxassou station, on the Bayonne–Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port line
Ideal 1-day itinerary
- Morning: the Church of Saint-Fructueux, then the Pas de Roland
- Afternoon: a walk through the orchards (in spring) or along the Nive valley, or up towards Artzamendi
Combine with
- Espelette — capital of the PDO pepper
- Cambo-les-Bains — thermal baths and Edmond Rostand’s Villa Arnaga
- Sare — one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France (Plus Beaux Villages de France) + caves
- Ainhoa — another of the Most Beautiful Villages of France
Frequently asked questions
Does Itxassou cherry have AOC status?
No, not yet. The local varieties (peloa, xapata, beltxa…) do not have a designation of origin; an application for PDO status was filed at the end of 2023.
Is the Pas de Roland suitable for children?
Yes, but take care on the banks of the Nive (slippery rocks): keep a close eye on young children.
My favourite photo
The cherry trees in blossom on the hillsides, with Artzamendi in the background — a white carpet over the green hills. Or the Church of Saint-Fructueux and its bell-tower porch.
Sources
- Intangible Cultural Heritage inventory — The Cherry Festival in Itxassou (in French)
- Itxassou town hall — Leisure, outdoors, activities (in French)
- Pays Basque tourist office — Cherries in the Basque Country (in French)
- Itxassou — Wikipedia (in French)
Ongi etorri Itsasura — Welcome to Itxassou.